There has been a lot of upheaval in my life right now. Buddy, whom you all know to be the love of my life, walked out on me just after Thanksgiving. After having been together 15 years, to say it has been a rough few months is quite the understatement. There hasn’t been much cooking going on, as I haven’t been feeling inspired. Let this be a warning to all budding chefs. Don’t let your job take over your life at the expense of your personal life. Your work should serve your life, not the other way around.

Still, since my life was a shambles, I tried throwing myself into my work to cope with the loss, but found that just wasn’t the answer. I couldn’t focus and things started slipping through the cracks that I never would have missed before. It was around this time that I received messages from a couple of friends I had not spoken to an a good long time. Having heard of my loss, they opened their homes to me and invited me out to get away for a bit. It sounded like just what I needed, so I decided to take a leave from work and travel to New Zealand.

I had no idea that my friend Victoria’s family owned a 40 acre farm on the North Island of New Zealand. It is absolutely gorgeous and I cannot think of a more idyllic place to recover. Day one included a cleansing salt water swim at a local beach, making homemade pretzels with V’s nephews, then picking plums at a neighbor’s orchard and coming back to the house to make fruit leather (aka fruit roll ups) with a dehydrator borrowed from another neighbor.

There is also something great about being in a small town when you’re feeling blue. Everyone is so friendly it is almost impossible to feel lonely.

I don’t know about you, but for me Thanksgiving is about everything but the turkey.  Every Thanksgiving is the same.  You grab a little turkey, a little stuffing, some cranberry sauce, and your essential mashed potatoes with gravy.  Then, you stare at all the other sides – macaroni and cheese, perhaps some roasted brussel sprouts, sweet potatoes, maybe creamed spinach – and you wonder how the heck you’re going to fit all of it in your stomach, let alone your plate.  Salad is simply a waste of time, and who even has room for dessert after all that?

Sure, you can get a great fresh, young, well raised turkey from a small farm.  Sure, you can brine it and roast it so that it’s perfectly juicy and delicious, but without all the trimmings, it would be really boring wouldn’t it?  There is so much tradition surrounding Thanksgiving, I like to keep the turkey preparation really simple – roasted on a bed of classic mirepoix, and the cavity stuffed with thyme, sage, and bay leaves.  People have such expectations and associations when it comes to Thanksgiving, I’m even nervous about messing with classic mashed potatoes. The rest of the sides though, leave room for a little fun and experimentation.

As usual I will be working and making dinner for 250 or so people on Thanksgiving day.  So Buddy and I celebrated a few days early.  It was good because it gave me a chance to try out some new recipes on a smaller scale (as in, dinner for two with leftovers for 4).  I started by playing with different stuffing recipes.  Last year I made cornbread stuffing for the first time, and this year I added some Smoky Maple Bacon, apples, and chestnuts.  Every year I make an orange cranberry compote, but this year I cooked in some orange rind as well as orange juice, so it was more of a marmalade.  For vegetables this year, I kept it really simple – Honey and Ginger Glazed Carrots, and Haricot Verts with Glazed Pearl Onions.

You’ll most likely want to stick to straightforward mashed potatoes for Thanksgiving, but if you and your guests are feeling adventurous, try adding a little root vegetable puree for a subtle yet flavorful departure.  I used parsnips, but rutabaga or celery root would work nicely too.

Mashed Potatoes with Root Vegetable Puree

INGREDIENTS, serves 4-6:

5-6 large russet or Idaho potatoes, peeled and cut into large chunks

2 large parsnips (or 1 rutabaga, or 1 celery root), peeled and sliced thinly

1-1/2 c.  whole milk

1-1/2 c.  heavy cream

3-4  Tbsp. butter

salt & pepper

PROCEDURE:

Place the potatoes in a large pot and cover with cold water.  Bring water to a boil, and add a large pinch of salt.  Lower the heat and simmer until the potatoes are tender.

Meanwhile, place the parsnips (or other root vegetable) in a small saucepan.  Add just enough milk and cream in equal parts to cover the vegetables.  Bring mixture to a boil, then lower heat immediately.  Add salt to taste, and simmer gently until the parsnips are cooked through, taking care not to burn the milk and cream on the bottom of the pot.  Puree the mixture with either a blender or an immersion blender until smooth.

Once the potatoes are cooked, drain and immediately mash or pass through a food mill or ricer.  Stir in the root vegetable puree, and butter.  Add more milk and cream as needed and add salt and pepper to taste.

Other useful recipes for the Thanksgiving table:

Maple Glazed Cornbread

Simplest Succotash

Sweet Potato Gnocchi

All Butter Pie Crust

Basic Braised Greens

Cardomom Pumpkin Tart

Classic Chicken Stock

Filed under: All, In the Kitchen Tagged: Celery Root, Parsnips, Potatoes, Rutabaga, Side Dishes, Stuffing, Thanksgiving ]]> http://havekniveswillcook.com/2011/11/24/last-minute-thanksgiving-ideas-mashed-potatoes-with-root-vegetable-puree/feed/ 2 ayma grup http://havekniveswillcook.com/2011/11/23/honey-and-ginger-glazed-carrots/ http://havekniveswillcook.com/2011/11/23/honey-and-ginger-glazed-carrots/#comments Thu, 24 Nov 2011 04:05:30 +0000 priscilla http://havekniveswillcook.com/?p=3330 ]]>

Carrots are such a sadly overlooked vegetable.  Although they are a kitchen staple, their flavor is so often lost in making stocks, soups, and braises.  We rarely appreciate that good fresh carrots have a sweetness and aroma all their own.   You may be able to find many different varieties at your local farmer’s market – from common baby carrots in different colors, to more unusual shapes such as thumbelinas and nantes.  Choose young tender carrots and glaze them with honey and some warming spices to really bring out their flavor.  I prepared the following recipe for a mini-Thanksgiving trial run earlier this week and my sister asked what I added to the carrots that made them taste so floral.  It was the carrots themselves!

INGREDIENTS, serves 4-6:

1 lb.   small young carrots, peeled and sliced thick

1-2 Tbsp.  butter

1-2 Tbsp.  honey

1″ piece of ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks

salt

a pinch of cayenne pepper

PROCEDURE:

1.  Place the carrots in a shallow saucepan just large enough so they fit in a single layer.  Add water to just halfway up their sides.  Add the ginger, butter, honey, a large pinch of salt, and a small pinch of cayenne pepper.   Bring the water to a boil, then lower the heat to medium.

2.  Cut a round of parchment just large enough to fit inside the saucepan and cut a hole in the center.  Cover the carrots with the parchment lid and simmer until the water is almost evaporated and the carrots are tender.

3.  Remove the lid and cook off the remaining liquid, shaking the pan so the carrots are nicely coated and shiny.

NOTES AND IDEAS:

You may omit the parchment lid, but then you will need to use more water to account for increased evaporation.

Try using chicken stock instead of water.  This adds flavor, and the gelatin in the stock makes the glaze stick to the carrots better.

See Haricot Verts with Glazed Pearl Onions for photos of glazing technique.

Glazing is an excellent technique for bringing out the flavor of firm root vegetables such as carrots, turnips, and pearl onions.  Here sweet glazed pearl onions are paired with haricot verts – thin and tender french green beans – for a fresh, light alternative to green bean casserole for Thanksgiving.  It’s so quick and easy, it makes a good side dish for any day of the week too.

INGREDIENTS, serves 4-6  as a side:

1/2 lb.    haricot verts, trimmed (a.k.a. french green beans)

6 oz.       peeled pearl onions

1 Tbsp.  butter

1 Tbsp.  sugar

salt

PROCEDURE:

1.  Blanch the haricot verts:  Bring a large pot of water to a boil.  Salt the water generously then add the haricot verts.  Cook on high heat until the beans turn bright green and are tender.  Remove and plunge immediately into ice water or strain under cold running water to stop the cooking.  Set aside.

2.  To Glaze Pearl Onions:  Place the onions in a shallow saucepan.  Add just enough water to come halfway way up the onions.  Add a large pinch of salt and the butter and sugar.  Bring the liquid to a boil, then reduce to medium-high heat.  Cut out a round of parchment paper to fit just inside the saucepan, and cut a small hole int he center.  Cover the onions with the parchment lid, and cook until most of the liquid has evaporated and the onions are tender.  Remove the parchment and continue to cook the onions, shaking the pan intermittently so that they brown evenly.

3.  Add the haricots verts to the onions, with a tablespoon or two of water to deglaze the caramelized sugar from the pan and just warm the beans through.  Serve immediately.

This time of year, the markets are full of fall root vegetables:  beets, turnips, rutabaga, and my favorite, sweet potatoes.  I love them roasted, mashed, french fried, or made into a pie.  Here I use them to make gnocchi.  Now these little babies take some work, but the results are really worth it.  They keep well frozen, so you can make a big batch and store them away for a nice alternative to pasta when you want a quick meal.  Sweet potatoes and yams have more moisture than regular potatoes, so instead of adding more flour I include a few russet potatoes.  This keeps the texture of the gnocchi light and fluffy.

Fall is also a great time for wild mushrooms.  Last year at the restaurant, I served these gnocchi with sauteed chanterelle mushrooms and roast chicken.  The natural juices from the chicken dripping onto the gnocchi was all the sauce they needed.  If you can’t get chanterelles, try a mix of other wild mushrooms such as hen of the woods, king oyster, or black trumpets.  Criminis, portobellos, or shitakes, available in almost any supermarket, are also good.

Sweet Potato Gnocchi with Mushrooms

INGREDIENTS (serves 4-6 as an entree, serves more as a side dish):

for the gnocchi:

3  lbs.           sweet potato or yams (about 3 to 4 pieces)

1-1/2 lbs.      russet potato (about 2 pieces)

2-1/2 to 3 c.   all purpose flour

6                  egg yolks

4 Tbsp.         kosher salt (use less if using table salt)

1/2 tsp.        cayenne pepper

pinch            nutmeg

extra flour for dusting

for the mushrooms and garnishes:

1 lb.        mixed wild mushrooms

4 Tbsp.    vegetable oil

4 Tbsp.    butter

1 Tbsp.    fresh picked thyme or 1 tsp. dry

1 Tbsp.    chopped fresh sage

salt and pepper to taste

Special equipment:  ricer or food mill

PROCEDURE:

1.  Preheat oven to 400°F.  Arrange the sweet potatoes and russet potatoes on a baking sheet and roast on the middle rack until tender, about 1 to 1-1/2 hours.  You may need to turn them halfway through so they don’t scorch on the bottom.  In the meantime, measure out the flour, separate your eggs, and mix just the salt and spices together.  Set aside until the potatoes are ready.

2.  While the potatoes are baking, you can also prepare your mushrooms.  Truly wild mushrooms tend to be dirty and will need to be thoroughly washed.  Black trumpets in particular, because of their trumpet shape, will have debris trapped inside that can only be removed by peeling them open before washing.  Wash them as you would salad greens, by filling a large bowl or sink with cold water.  Toss the mushrooms in the water, then leave them for a few minutes to allow any dirt to sink to the bottom.  You may have to repeat this process once ore twice more.  Arrange the mushrooms in a single layer on a tray lined with a clean dry kitchen towel and allow them to dry a bit before cooking.

3.  To cook the mushrooms, coat a large skillet with vegetable oil and heat over high heat.  Add only enough mushrooms so that they will make one layer in the skillet.  Once the mushrooms have browned and cooked off most of their liquid, season with salt and pepper, and finish with a sprinkle of thyme and a pat of butter.  Working in batches as needed, repeat until all the mushrooms are cooked.  Set aside.

4.  Once the potatoes are cooked, let them cool at room temperature.  When they are cool enough to handle, but still warm, remove the skins and pass the flesh through a ricer or food mill into a large bowl.  Make a well in the mixture and pour 1 cup of the flour over.  Pour the egg yolks into the well and cover with one more cup of flour.  Sprinkle the salt and spice mixture evenly over.

5.  Using a wooden spoon or your hands, mix the dough by gathering the dry ingredients into the well, working from the center outwards until the mixture is uniform and smooth.  Turn the mixture onto a clean, lightly floured surface and knead briefly, adding more flour as needed until you have a soft but workable dough.  Do not overwork the dough or the gnocchi will be too chewy.

6.  Cut a piece of dough about the size of a golf ball, and making sure your work surface and hands are dusted with flour, roll it into a rod about 3/4″ in diameter.  Cut into desired lengths and place on a floured baking sheet or tray.  Repeat until all the dough is rolled and cut.  At this stage, you can put the tray in the freezer and freeze the gnocchi raw, or cook  them first.

7.  To cook gnocchi, bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a rapid boil.  Working in batches if needed, drop the gnocchi into the water and give it a good stir so they don’t stick to the bottom of the pot.  Once the gnocchi float to the surface, cook for a minute more then remove from the pot and either cool in a colander under cold running water, or on a large oiled baking sheet.

8.  To serve, melt a couple tablespoons of butter in a large skillet and heat until it turns golden brown and take on a nutty aroma.  Add first the gnocchi, then chopped sage to the pan, and crisp over medium heat until they are golden brown. Mix in the cooked mushroom mixture, heat through and serve.

We’re all pretty familiar with your standard Eggs Benedict:  two poached eggs over a slice of Canadian Bacon or ham, on a toasted English muffin, luxuriously topped with Hollandaise sauce.  Well here is a fresh take that makes use of leftovers from Saturday evening’s pork loin roast.  Combine them with with farm fresh organic eggs and produce, and crusty sourdough bread to make an elegant Sunday brunch.

This recipe also uses a number of techniques that are good to have in your repertoire.

Rosemary Pork Loin Benedict

INGREDIENTS, serves 6:

For the Orange Hollandaise:

2 egg yolks

2-3 Tbsp. fresh squeezed orange juice

1 cup warm melted or clarified butter

1-2 Tbsp. fresh squeezed lemon juice

a few drops of Tobasco sauce

salt to taste

For the Benedict:

2 lb. Rosemary Roasted Pork Loin

12 slices from a loaf of crusty French or Italian sourdough

good extra virgin olive oil

sea salt

freshly ground black pepper

1 dozen large eggs

water

white distilled vinegar

PROCEDURE:

1.  Make the Orange Hollandaise:  Combine the yolks with the orange juice in a heatproof bowl and whisk together.  Set the bowl over a saucepan of simmering water and continue whisking until it is thick and fluffy, about 2-3 minutes.  Take care not to cook the yolks or they will curdle.  Remove the bowl from the heat, and slowly whisk in the butter.  Add lemon juice, tobasco, and salt to taste.  Return the bowl to the pot of water, but off the heat to keep warm as you prepare the remaining ingredients (see How to Make Hollandaise Sauce).

2.  Toast the bread and warm the Pork Loin:  Preheat the oven to 375°.  Arrange the slices of bread on a baking sheet.  Brush each one with a little olive oil, and sprinkle with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper.  Toast in the oven just to crisp the edges, about 4 or 5 minutes.  Lower the oven to 250°.  Cut from the roast 12 slices, each about 1/4″ thick.  Arrange a slice of pork loin on each slice of bread and return the baking sheet to the oven to keep warm while you poach the eggs.

3.  Poach the Eggs:  Fill a 10″ shallow saucepan with water and a splash of vinegar.  Bring the water to a bare simmer and poach the eggs in batches of 3 or 4  (see How to Poach Eggs).  Blot cooked eggs on a paper towel.  Arrange two pieces of warm pork loin and toast on each plate and top each with a poached egg.  Top eggs with the warm Hollandaise sauce and garnish with Wild Arugula Salad.

Wild Arugula Salad

INGREDIENTS, serves 4 to 6:

1 large bulb of fennel

1 Tbsp. of fresh squeezed lemon juice

2-3 navel oranges

2 large bunches of arugula (or one of those prewashed boxes)

good extra virgin olive oil

sea salt & pepper

PROCEDURE:

1.  Using a mandoline or sharp knife, cut the fennel into paper thin slices, and toss it in a large bowl with the lemon juice.  The lemon juice will keep the fennel from turning brown.

2.  Remove the peel and pith from the oranges and cut the segments into the bowl of fennel.  Squeeze any remaining juice from the cores and add the juice to the bowl as well.

3.  Add the arugula to the bowl, sprinkle with a little salt and fresh pepper, and drizzle with olive oil.  Gently toss all the ingredients together.

Used in the making of this recipe:

Nature’s Promise Organic Pork Loin from Stop & Shop.

Farm Fresh Eggs from Feather Ridge Farm, Lulu Oranges from Deer Creek Heights Ranch, and Wild Arugula from Migliorelli Farm delivered by Basis Good Food to You.

Organic French Sourdough from Bread Alone Bakery.

Butter from Organic Valley.

Finished Hollandaise Sauce is thick and airy

Classic Hollandaise sauce contains three key components:  egg yolks, clarified butter, and lemon juice.  It’s made by whisking egg yolks together with a little water in a bowl set over a pan of simmering water until they are thick and frothy.  Then the bowl is removed from the heat, and warm clarified butter is slowly whisked into the mixture.  Finally lemon juice is added to taste.  The technique produces a smooth, fluffy sauce that is a classic complement to poached eggs or asparagus.

Basic Hollandaise Sauce

Clarified butter is made by simply melting butter and allowing the milk solids to separate from the fat.  I find the easiest way is to cut up the butter and melt it in the microwave in a Pyrex measuring cup.  Then I set it aside for a minute or two and skim the foam off the top.  When I pour it into the sauce, I just take care to leave the milk solids in the bottom of the cup.

INGREDIENTS, for about 1 cup:

2 large egg yolks

2 Tbsp. water

1 cup melted and clarified butter (2 sticks)

1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice

salt and Tobasco or cayenne pepper to taste

PROCEDURE:

1.  Fill a saucepan with about and inch of water and bring to a bare simmer.  In the meantime combine egg yolks and water in a heatproof bowl.  Set the bowl over the simmering water and immediately start whisking the egg yolks.  Take care that the water remains barely simmering and that the bottom of the bowl does not touch it.

Set egg yolks and water over a pot of simmering water. The bowl should not touch the water.

Immediately start whisking the egg yolks.

2.  Continue whisking the egg yolks until they are thick and frothy.  This should take about 3 minutes.

Egg yolks should become thick and frothy, and will turn a pale yellow.

Egg yolks, ready to add butter.

3.  Remove the mixture from the heat and slowly whisk in warm melted butter.  If you add the butter too quickly, the sauce will break – meaning the fat will separate and the sauce won’t hold together.  If the mixture gets too thick you can add warm water a tablespoon at a time until you get the right consistency.

Pour butter in a slow stream, whisking continuously.

4.  Stir in lemon juice, and season with salt and Tobasco or cayenne pepper to taste.

5.  If you are not using it right away, you can set the bowl over the pan of hot water, with the heat set on the lowest setting.  Just take care that the sauce doesn’t get too hot or it will break.

IDEAS AND VARIATIONS:

For a classic Bearnaise Sauce, substitute white wine vinegar for the lemon juice, and add fresh chopped tarragon to taste.  It is delicious served with beef tenderloin medallions or a roast.

For Orange Hollandaise, substitute fresh squeezed orange juice in place of water.  Serve over poached eggs with slices of Rosemary Roasted Pork Loin, for a play on Eggs Benedict.

Filed under: All, In the Kitchen Tagged: Eggs, Hollandaise, Sauces ]]> http://havekniveswillcook.com/2011/05/09/how-to-make-hollandaise-sauce/feed/ 1 ayma grup http://havekniveswillcook.com/2011/05/09/how-to-poach-eggs/ http://havekniveswillcook.com/2011/05/09/how-to-poach-eggs/#comments Mon, 09 May 2011 21:39:10 +0000 priscilla http://havekniveswillcook.com/?p=2983 ]]>

Crack each batch of eggs into prep bowls so that you can drop them into the water more quickly.

Poached eggs have such a great number of uses, and there is just something about a perfectly poached egg, that’s just well…perfect.  Aside from Eggs Benedict, they are a classic component for Frisee and Lardon Salad, and are delicious with Roast Pork and Ramen Noodles too.  They are actually not that difficult to make.  Here’s how:

You will need:

eggs

3 or 4 prep bowls

a shallow 10″ saucepan

water

white vinegar

a slotted spoon

Procedure:

1.  Fill a 10″ shallow saucepan with water and a splash of vinegar, and bring to a boil.  Lower to just a bare simmer.  Crack an egg into each of the prep bowls, removing any shell that might end up in the bowls, and discarding any ones with broken yolks.  Before you drop them in, give the water a vigorous stir.

Give the water a vigorous stir before the eggs go in.

2. Quickly but gently drop the eggs in one at a time while the water is still moving.  If you are poaching a number of eggs, do them in batches of 3 or 4.  They will cook more evenly.

Cook eggs in batches of 3 or 4. Use a larger pan and more water if you need to do larger batches.

3.  Give the water another gentle stir, keeping to the edges of the pan.  This encourages the egg whites to flip over and coat the tops of the yolks, so you don’t end up with a “sunny side up” appearance.

Give the water a gentle stir right after the eggs go in.

4.  Cook the eggs for 2-1/2 to 3 minutes.  If you have another batch to cook, use this time to crack them into the prep bowls.  The eggs are are ready when the whites are completely set but the yolks are still liquid.  Use a slotted spoon to remove them from the water. Blot on paper towels and if desired, use kitchen shears to remove any jagged edges.  Serve immediately.

Finished eggs. The bottom two have been trimmed, the top two have not. Eggs on the left were given a gentle stir after going into the water and have a more pronounced yolk. Eggs on the right got more vigorous stir and have a more even coat of white around the yolk. However the top right egg is overcooked. Nobody's perfect.

5.  If you are not using the eggs immediately, plunge them into a bowl of ice water to cool.  When you are ready to serve them, reheat the eggs in barely simmering water for at least 30 seconds and up to a minute, taking care not to overcook them.

NOTES:

The vinegar is added to the water to help the eggs coagulate as soon as they hit the water instead of breaking up.  Don’t add too much vinegar though, or your eggs will take on its flavor.

Fresher eggs hold their shape better and are easier to poach.  As eggs age, they start to break down and liquify.  Eggs also poach better if they start off cold.  As they come to room temperature, the whites get runny and the yolks cook more quickly.

Filed under: All, In the Kitchen Tagged: Eggs, How To, Poached Eggs, Technique ]]> http://havekniveswillcook.com/2011/05/09/how-to-poach-eggs/feed/ 2 ayma grup http://havekniveswillcook.com/2011/05/09/the-difference-is-in-the-brine/ http://havekniveswillcook.com/2011/05/09/the-difference-is-in-the-brine/#comments Mon, 09 May 2011 17:19:13 +0000 priscilla http://havekniveswillcook.com/?p=2986 ]]>

Rosemary Roasted Pork Loin (also note the how well seasoned that carbon steel pan is now - if that isn't love...)

Why bother to brine a pork roast, a turkey, or a chicken?  Well, there are two reasons.  The first is that all three of these meats generally don’t contain a lot of intramuscular fat and therefore tend to dry out when you roast or grill them.  Brining helps the meat to retain its juices, even if it’s slightly overcooked.  The second reason is flavor.  A basic brine is made up of water, salt and sugar.  Soaking a roast, a bird, or even chops in this liquid allows the meat to become seasoned all the way through, not just on the outside.

Lately one of the things I like to keep in my larder is a pork loin roast.  A 1-1/2 to 2 lb. roast is the perfect size for my little household of two plus dog.  I brine it for about 2 hours, then sear it off, and roast it.  The whole process takes about 3 hours, largely unattended.  Properly cooled and left whole, the cooked roast with keep for about 3 days tightly wrapped in the fridge.   Then I just slice off pieces as I need to make grilled sandwiches or to have with eggs and toast.

Rosemary Roasted Pork Loin

INGREDIENTS for a 2 lb. pork loin roast:

1 quart (4 cups) water

1 Tbsp.  sugar

1 Tbsp.  table salt or fine sea salt

             or 1 Tbsp. plus 1-/2 tsp. kosher salt

1 sprig of fresh rosemary

salt and freshly ground black pepper

neutral cooking oil, such as canola or grapeseed

PROCEDURE:

1.  Prepare the brine by combining water with the salt, sugar and rosemary in a small saucepan.  Heat the mixture and stir to dissolve the salt and sugar.  Remove the pan from the heat allow the brine to cool completely (it should be cold to the touch) before using.

2.  To brine the roast, simply put it in a non-reactive (i.e. plastic, glass, or stainless steel) bowl or container, cover it with the brine, and weigh it down with a plate so it stays completely submerged.  Instead of a container I like to use a ziploc freezer bag.  The roast fits perfectly inside a gallon size bag, and if you are able to squeeze out most of the air before you seal it, you will find you only need about 2 cups of brine to keep the roast completely submerged.  Refrigerate the roast in the brine for 1-1/2 to 2 hours.

3. Remove the roast from the brine and discard the brine.  I prefer to tie the roast before cooking.  This will help the roast to keep a uniform shape and cook evenly.  The simplest method is to use a few lengths of twine and tie the roast in three places about 1-1/2 inches apart.  Tie it only tight enough so that it holds its shape.

There's more than one way to tie a roast. No need to get all fancy...

4.  To roast the loin preheat the oven to 350° F.  Meanwhile pat the roast dry with some paper towels and season the outside with salt and freshly ground black pepper.  Heat a few tablespoons of oil in a 10″ ovenproof skillet, and when the oil is shimmering, brown the roast on three sides, and the ends.  Flip the roast onto the fourth side and pop it in the oven, skillet and all.  The fourth side will continue to brown in the oven.

5.  Roast to an internal temperature of 135°, about 30-45 minutes.  Then pull the roast from the oven and let it rest at room temperature for about 15-20 minutes.  The internal temperature will continue to rise a few degrees as it rests, and should reach 140°. It is also important to let the meat rest before serving so that the juices in the center of the meat redistribute to the outer parts which have dried out during cooking.

6.  To store the roast for later use, transfer the roast whole to a plate or small tray and let it cool completely in the fridge.  Once it is completely cooled all the way through, wrap it tightly in plastic, and keep it refrigerated.  Use within 3 days.

IDEAS:

Use thinly sliced pork loin in place of ham for your ham and cheese sandwiches.

Use thick sliced pork loin instead of Canadian bacon or ham for Eggs Benedict.

Try brining and roasting a boneless turkey breast instead of pork loin.  Omit the sugar from the brine and substitute thyme or sage in place of rosemary.  Brine for about 1 hour per pound.  Then roast to an internal temperature of 160° and let it rest so it reaches 165°.  Cool and store as you would the pork loin.

Make a big batch of brine and keep it in your fridge for whenever you need it.  After all, it’s only salt, sugar and water so it should keep for some time.

I ordered a pork shoulder through Basis Foods a couple months ago.  The online store estimated each one at about 8 or 9 lbs.  But when it arrived from Mountain View Farm it was a whopping 13 lbs, and…it was frozen.  So I popped it in my freezer because unless I had a special occasion or a plan to make use of all that pork, there was no way the Buddy and I were going to be able to eat all of it.

Last week I finally thawed it out.  The boneless half I sliced into steaks which I used to make Char Siu, and Tasso Ham.  The bone end, which weighed about 7 lbs. became the easiest pulled pork ever.  I looked up David Chang’s recipe for his Bo Ssam in the Momofuku Cookbook, and was truly surprised at how basic his recipe was for marinating and cooking the pork:  Rub pork with salt and sugar and marinate overnight.  Cook pork, in a covered pan at 300 degrees until fork tender.

That was it.  I cooked the pork in a covered dutch oven overnight.  You don’t need to add any liquid to the pan because the temperature should be low enough, and a typical pork butt should release enough pan an juices to keep the roast from drying out.  Just make sure your butcher has left a good layer of fat on to keep the meat from drying out.  I set my alarm for 6 hours, and awoke to find a perfectly cooked pork but that was falling off the bone.  The sugar caramelized over the covering of fat, making it wonderfully sweet, salty and crispy.   How’s that for cooking in your sleep?

Easy Pulled Pork Shoulder

Adapted from David Chang’s Momofuku Cookbook

INGREDIENTS,

6-8 lb. bone-in pork shoulder (a.k.a. boston butt):

1 cup salt

1-1/2 cups sugar (substitute a portion of brown sugar if you like)

PROCEDURE:

Mix together the salt and sugar.  Rub the pork shoulder with the mixture and wrap tightly in plastic wrap.  Refrigerate and allow it to marinate for at least 6, but no longer than 24 hours.

After marinating, take pork butt out of the fridge and place it in a deep baking dish or dutch oven.   The meat should fit rather snugly.  Let it rest at room temperature about 1 hour.  Meanwhile adjust an oven rack to the lower middle position, and preheat oven to 300 degrees.

Cover the baking dish completely with foil, or put the lid on the dutch oven and cook for about 6 hours or until the meat pulls easily with a fork.  There should be a good amount of fat and juices in the bottom of the pan.  Let the meat rest for 30-45 minutes before pulling it.  After it has been pulled, mix in some of the fat and juices, to taste.

SERVING IDEAS:

The neutral flavor of this pulled pork makes it perfect for a variety of preparations.  Serve it as  pulled pork sandwiches, with soft potato rolls, pickles, and cole slaw , or try substituting it in this recipe for pork belly tacos.

Filed under: All, In the Kitchen Tagged: pork, Slow Food ]]> http://havekniveswillcook.com/2011/05/03/pulled-pork-that-practically-cooks-itself/feed/ 2 ayma grup